new orleans itinerary



Last night, Phil and his vagina complained about the cold, so there was no walking. We did manage to walk to dinner at BON TON CAFE for some cajun morsels. We began by ordering an entree as an appetizer: Oysters Alvin, with dirty Rice. I asked for something green, so we shared a salad of lump crabmeat over greens with whole-grain mustard dressing. Then came: Crabmeat Au Gratin; Red Fish Alzina; Eggplant, Shrimp and Crabmeat Etouffee; and of course some Chicory coffee and a serving of their Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce along with a scoop of Pecan Crunch Ice Cream. The morsels turned into a mountain of food. There will be walking today, and plenty of it.



Today I have to schedule my day around a 1pm conference call. Our first stop is Dickie Brennan’s PALACE CAFE for more food coma. I will drink bowls of coffee and pray for my cold to go away! No the anti-biotics have not helped. I’m still sick. Not as sick, but still. At least there’s Tabasco on every table. 
**This was a disappointing meal. Everything sounds really good, but everything was just blah.
Including the chicken sausage gumbo and the crab cheese cake with pecan crust. Sounds good, but the sauce overpowered the delicate flavors. Overall, it was a big disappointment, other than the fact that we ran into my brother-in-law, the very one I tried to friend on facebook. Of all the places, without a phone call, a text, or IM, we ended up at the same place at the same time.

We hit CAFE DU MONDE for cafe au lait and beignets, and yeah, I hate to agree, but it was "just okay." I get that there’s history, that you go to say you’ve been, you go because it’s the idea of being there that seems romantic. But, eh.

We’re off to RESTAURANT AUGUST for dinner tonight. So we’re hitting the gym soon in preparation.



  1. New Orleans is one of my favorite cities! Do try Cuvee–phenomenal French/Spanish/Cajun cuisine (I believe its in the business district not too far from the French Quarter) as well as Cafe Du Monde–wonderful beignets and great for people-watching. Its near the river.

  2. NOLA–the lovely Crescent City. Lived there for years before hading to NYU for B-school. Still go nearly every year for Jazzfest.

    You asked where to get the best bread pudding. Palace Cafe features a white chocolate bread pudding. I have the recipe somewhere and can forward if you are interested.

    Brigtsen's–I recall a pleasant atmoshpere in the little house in the Riverbend area where they served authentically prepared Creole cuisine.

    Bayona–Susan Spicer's restaurant in the Quarter. Spicer has achieved great success and it is well deserved.

    There's an Italian grocery store on Decatur in the Quarter that makes the best muffaletta. Tujague's is the oldest restaurant and it is also located on Decatur.

    I would encourage you to head to the Uptown area away from the French Quarter. There's the Upperline or Clancy's. Find time for a cocktail at the Column's hotel.

    One other local specialty is the praline. Go for the Original at Aunt Sally's. They have a shop along the River in front of the French Market.

    Cafe Degas on Esplanade Ave is a longstanding favorite as well. Food is delish and there's a huge tree growing in the midst of the restaurant–floor is built right around it.

    This is off-topic, but if you have any time, Belladonna Spa on Magazine is a little oasis. I make time for a massage or facial there each time I visit NOLA.

    I could go on and on. Enjoy!! I am so jealous.

  3. Sounds devine! I love bread pudding. Hope you feel better. Enjoy yourselves. I'm not capable of long sentences today.

  4. If you like chicory in your coffee, and that NOLA vibe in the morning, you may want to try Cool Brew. It's a NOLA product but they ship all over. I order it online every couple of months, I'm hooked.
    You are in my favorite city on earth…

  5. stephanie
    I know you're sick and just want to feel better but antibiotics will not work for flu, taking them when we dont need them only serves to increase bacterial potency and has caused all of the nosocomial infections we see now. I am a little sensitive as I recently had a family member succumb to one. Its now my new pet project. Informing peiple that they cant have anti bios for flu.
    that siad enjoy your trip, feel better, somehow

  6. I asked you once in a call in interview if you consider yourself a feminist and you immediately became annoyed and said of course you were by virtue of the college you attended.
    Most feminists don't use the word vagina in a derogatory fashion.

    FROM STEPHANIE: I believe that women and men should be treated equally. It's why I'm derogatory to penises and vaginas, one and all.

  7. Such beautiful pictures, you really are a talent.

    And in my humble women's college opinion, feminists can say whatever the fuck they want. :)

  8. I live in NOLA, and I recommend Palace Cafe for Brunch. I agree, everything else is a little lack-luster, but the Bananas-Foster Beignets? AMAZING.

    The one place you MUST eat while there is a quaint little cajun restaurant way uptown called Jacques-Imo's. After living in NOLA for 3 years I can tell you it is where I take every single out-of-towner because it's got personality and KICK ASS food.

    And Zea? Totally not worth your time.

  9. Great pics! Glad you made it to Cafe du Monde. It is the place in which all others are compared, so now you can adequately compare. A place I took some cool pictures at in New Orleans was the voodoo stores around the French Quarter. Yeah, they sell tacky voodoo dolls and tshirts, but some of them have fantastic mosaic tiled floors, paintings, statues, and just plain ole weird shit hanging from the ceilings. When I showed my friends my N.O. pics, they all wanted to know where I got the pic of the skeleton death angel with the orange fire background. Now you know my secret.

  10. 'Eh' for the beignets at Cafe DuMonde??? Really Stephanie.. don't be such a snob. They're fried dough.. it's simple.. and delicious.

  11. Stephanie,
    Your photographs inspire me EVERY TIME I see them! You have such a natural eye for capturing just the right shot!
    So…did you tip the puppet man?!

  12. Palace Cafe'?! ::sigh:: so so touristy! i so wish i would've read sooner, to keep you out of the tourist traps, the ones shown on those lighted signs as you descend the escalator in the airport (all Brennan's, mind you!!!). ::sigh again:: Jacques-Imo's ( ) on Oak Street was your best bet for your last night in this fair town. in case you're reading this on your blackberry, RUN there, or take the trolley, instead. and for the love of all things alive, DO NOT stray off of safe streets. this is decidely NOT a safe town. REALLY.

  13. I love your black & white's stephanie! you get such a nice spectrum of grey in there and such dark blacks…how in the world do you do it? My pictures looks more like Grey & Grey if I try to desaturate them.

    Oh and I'm the Johanna that babysits 2 year old boy/girl twins sometimes…well I'm done with that job because I'm going back to school in Rhode Island. But I just wanted to mention that one of my projects this past month was to help the mom organize all her video footage (90% of which I took) and photographs (95% of which I took) and I made a movie of their first year and the songs I used were Calling All Angels and the two you used and lets just say everyone who has seen it has cried. Thanks for posting your beautiful movie on here just in time for me to love those songs together.

    Year 2 video was more of a hassle and I wanted her to do some of it so that she's not completely lost when I leave. And what happens?: she nearly has a breakdown because i'm leaving and somehow "forgets" everything I taught her. Interesting how the human mind works: like maybe it was thinking that if she 'needs' me more maybe i won't leave. Seriously she was even saying things like "wait wait so I go: Itunes, export project"

    i'm just like….oh god…"there is no export or project in itunes. you know this…you have it written down."

    she says "i know…but" and i felt free to fill in the blank in my head..she wanted to say "i know, but i don't want you to go"

  14. Please keep the photos coming. I find myself returning to your flickr site in anticipation of more, more, more NOLA. I was there twice in 2008, first my big milestone b-day (you motivated me to get a good camera for that one) and then again for FQ Fest. This is making me jones for a plan to go back very soon. And I am thrilled to see all the reader recommendations for food stops… A person can never have a list too long…

  15. Hey! I live in New Orleans-been crazy with work so I hadn't seen your post about being in town. Definitly go to Augusts. Great food. John has 3 other restaurants here as well but Augusts is still my favorite. (Along with Besh at harrahs). You have to go to the Columns for a drink. On St. Charles. Jacques-Imos is fun and great. We love le petit grocery and we go to dantes uptown for brunch. Have a great time!

  16. I always associate New Orleans with that one episode of the Simpsons where Marge starred in " A streetcar named desire". The tune plays in my head right now :)
    Great that you met up with your brother-in-law! Funny how life works out that way.

    Caroline is right though, a cold is a viral infection, antibiotics won't help here. They only help when the disease is caused by bacteria (like stomach-flu or urinal infections for instance). Best to ask your pharmacist for some anti-viral stuff. Get well soon!

    FROM SK: Thought I had a sinus infection. Things did get better, but I'm still sick-ish. Not nearly as bad, but something is still there.

  17. What did you think of August? We were in NOLA in May 2004 and our most memorable meals were at Upperline, August, and of course Cafe du Monde. I was not impressed by Commander's Palace.

  18. Stephanie, your photographs are quite possibly my favorite part of your blog. They always inspire me to get back into taking pictures. A picture is definitely worth a thousand words.

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